[5], Bailey was hired in 1970 by Island Records' Chris Blackwell to shoot publicity photos of Cat Stevens for his upcoming album Tea for the Tillerman. "Well, that new Philip Roth book Everymanwas depressing - all about death. He was created a Commander of the Order of the British Empire in 2001. Bailey was awarded the title Commander of the Order of the British Empire (CBE) in 2019. The 'Young Idea' story with Jean, is full of considered influences. ", ** "I don't know where I first met Jack. There was no real career master plan, he just "flicked through a magazine, took down some addresses and waited to hear back. WebDavid Bailey was born in Leytonstone, East London, to Herbert Bailey, a tailor's cutter, and his wife, Gladys, a machinist. I used to spend hours drawing the Disney characters over and over again. In 1959, he received a phone call inviting him to interview with photographer John French, who also employed Bailey as a second assistant. Now in his 80s, Bailey is still active and over the course of his long career he has published more than forty books and created over 500 commercials and films. He subsequently appeared in a series of UK TV commercials for the Olympus Trip camera. Books of his photographs included Box of Pin-ups (1964), Goodbye Baby & Amen: A Sarabande for the Sixties (1969), Another Image: Papua New Guinea (1975), David Baileys Trouble and Strife (1980), David Bailey, London NWI: Urban Landscapes (1982), Imagine (1985), David Baileys Rock and Roll Heroes (1997), and David Bailey: Chasing Rainbows (2001). In each location, Bailey would spent only four or five days shooting for the magazine, then go off on his own to photograph local people, which he found much more satisfying and fulfilling than commercial work. I think we fell in love with each other straight away, although I was an odd choice for Jean. In the same year both Francis Bacon and Salvador Dali tried to pick me up - how lucky can one man be! Bailey has three children with Catherine, Paloma (named for Picasso's daughter), Fenton, and Sascha. From 1970, Bailey began to be sent abroad more regularly, predominantly to take fashion photographs in far-flung locations in the hope that these would engage magazine readers in new ways. From 1968 to 1971 he directed and produced TV documentaries titled Beaton, Warhol and Visconti. I've always sort of known him, really. They would have been 19. But I think everybody tried that. Let us know if you have suggestions to improve this article (requires login). His use of stark white backgrounds, movement, and a direct, cropped perspective bring a sense of spontaneity to his portraits and he captured many celebrities at the height of their careers, often conveying ideas of energy, youth, and sexuality. There was no substance, really. WebDavid Bailey was no ordinary professor. David Bailey tears off the red foil on his cheap cigar ("I smoke the crap ones in the hope the disgusting taste will make me give up"), lights it, puffs up a huge fug of smoke across the room and wanders over to the large black stereo that's had Bob Dylan's latest album Modern Times on repeat for the past three hours. We used to go out together with American, Vogue editor Diana Vreeland. "He doesn't market himself or jump through hoops to please either his subjects or the person he's working for he's just himself." Bailey captured important figures from across all walks of life in his work, from Naomi Campbell to Diana Vreeland, The Rolling In February 1960, the same month as he married he first wife Rosemary Bramble (the marriage lasted just 11 months), Vogue offered him a contract, but Bailey turned them down. He earned 3 10s (3.50) a week, and acted as studio dogsbody. Whole life devoted to it.". Bailey knew Nicholson well, spending a lot of time socializing with the actor and his then-girlfriend Angelica Houston (who Bailey also photographed regularly). 2023 The Art Story Foundation. Rankin has made a name for himself as "the New David Bailey", a term that he'll admit promoting to further his own career. (For example, in 1969 the South Branch did have the lower average flow). Notched onto his professional bedpost, Bailey can count 21 books, hundreds of magazine covers, more than 20 major exhibitions worldwide and an archive of iconic photographs that if laid out could wallpaper Tate Modern's Turbine Hall twice over. [5], Since 1966, Bailey has also directed several television commercials and documentaries. In 1995 he directed and wrote the South Bank Film The Lady is a Tramp featuring his wife Catherine Bailey. Bailey enjoyed shooting fashion photographs in the streets. In 1998 he directed a documentary with Ginger Television Production, Models Close Up, commissioned by Channel 4 Television. The Box was an unusual and unique commercial release. Bailey admits "I've always been a huge fan of the Queen. Please be able to explain the David Bailey Influence. Why? Well, fuck it." I've got so many mates who have walking sticks now. I didn't explain anything to her; she had instinct, she knew how to move.". I could develop a picture by the time I was 12. I've done it now," believing that studio fashion photography very quickly becomes mundane, with the photographer just doing "the same old thing". As his fame grew, the attractive and energetic young Bailey began to socialize with A-list actors, musicians, and even members of the royal family. David Bailey, whose career in photography would eventually bring him into contact with the high reaches of British society, came from a working-class East London background. WebTwo photographs. Bailey introduced a new informality into portrait photography, capturing his subjects relaxed and often in movement. I liked what Yves Saint Laurent was doing in Paris. Also on the shoot was model, philanthropist and film director Elisa Sednaoui along with GQ magazine's most stylish male 2003, Martin Gardner. Instantly, the moment she walked into the room. Strong lighting is directed at the left side of his face, leaving the right side darkened by heavy shadow. Commander of the Order of the British Empire, Learn how and when to remove this template message, Passed/Failed: An education in the life of David Bailey, photographer, "David Bailey was a scowling, socially mobile rude boy", "A conversation with Yusuf Islam & Alun Davies", "Damien Hirst and David Bailey don their Stormtrooper helmets for 'Art Wars', "Look Again by David Bailey review no reflection, no regret", "Royal Photographic Society's Centenary Award", "ICP Gives 2016 Infinity Awards to Walid Raad, Zanele Muholi, David Bailey, More", "1970s Olympus Trip 35 Commercials Starring British Photographer David Bailey", "Fenton Fox BAILEY - Personal Appointments (free information from Companies House)", "Photographer David Bailey reveals he has vascular dementia", "Unseen pictures to feature in David Bailey show at National Portrait Gallery", Liz Walker interviews David Bailey, September 1990, David Bailey British Vogue Covers Archive, David Bailey: Still troubling after all these years, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=David_Bailey&oldid=1141595441, Commanders of the Order of the British Empire, Pages containing London Gazette template with parameter supp set to y, Pages using infobox person with multiple spouses, Articles with unsourced statements from June 2020, Articles with unsourced statements from May 2020, Articles with unsourced statements from September 2018, Articles with unsourced statements from May 2022, BLP articles lacking sources from July 2014, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License 3.0. The rest of his prints are under lock and key, either boxed up at the estate in Devon that he shares with his wife, or in the hands of art galleries, private collectors, auctioneers or wealthy patrons such as Sheik Saud al-Thani of Qatar and the artist Damien Hirst. In this black and white photograph, a fashion model stands in a bare studio setting. A side effect of these cost-saving outings was that Bailey became very familiar with the world of film, learning about all the Hollywood actors and directors. Our memories of David will be deeply cherished and his influence long felt because he lived his academic career as a vocation borne out of a true love for learning, for students, and for his colleagues and out of a deep regard for the department and university to which he was so devoted. Remnick too, you might guess, had honourable intentions: not only eager to employ the skills of one of the world's greatest living portrait takers but also hungry to attach a name such as Bailey's to the weekly magazine. UNDELIVERED REMARKS FOR THE MEMORIAL SERVICE FOR DAVID BAILEY, DECEMBER 5, 2015 Rather, he was specifically attracted to, and influenced by, the American theologian Reinhold Niebuhr. From the age of three he lived in East Ham. Pure Sixties Pure Bailey 2010, This page was last edited on 25 February 2023, at 21:18. ", ** "Tom Ford has a timeless sense of style. I thought it was all a bit silly. Baileys fashion work and celebrity portraiture, characterized by stark backgrounds and dramatic lighting effects, transformed British fashion and celebrity photography from chic but reserved stylization to something more youthful and direct. "In the winter", he recalled, the family "would take bread-and-jam sandwiches and go to the cinema every night because in those days it was cheaper to go to the cinema than to put on the gas fire. During his six months with Olins, Bailey worked mainly as a messenger boy, earning just over 3 per week. In this black and white photograph, model Jean Shrimpton is seen inside a telephone box slightly to the right of center frame. Corrections? Bailey's documentary work is no less dynamic, with his provocative film, Warhol by Bailey (1973) causing a backlash in some quarters for its references to sex, nudity and its implications of homosexuality. Warhol - dead. It's like Dietrich and Garbo in movies, they've just got this thing that makes them stand out." But I always knew what I was there for at Vogue and those fashion magazines - it was to sell frocks. Updates? As a fan and an avid reader, the British photographer was keen to start working for Remnick's magazine (he hadn't taken a picture for the New Yorker since former editor Tina Brown left in a flurry of column inches in 1998). But I always knew what I was there for at Vogue and those fashion magazines - it was to sell frocks. WebDetermining which branch was the major one in 1736 could have been influenced by rainfall that summer. Bailey was the first person behind the lens, in Britain at least, to become as desired and as well-known as the rock stars, models and movie icons he photographed. During the 1990s, Bailey continued to direct for television, including the BBC drama Who Dealt? But the spark must have been triggered somehow. You need less imagination to be a painter, because you can invent things. Over time, Bailey's fast, almost snapshot way of working became the very essence of what makes his images so powerful, so emotive and so iconic. In one school year, he claims he only attended 33 times. Bailey started taking photographs with his mother's Brownie camera. As a kid I used to draw or paint and I continued in the Air Force. The two were romantically involved for a number of years and worked together on photo shoots for several decades. ", "I was looking out the French windows of my studio, waiting for him, and this lone figure wandered down the cobbles looking scruffy, just carrying a guitar. Did I ever tell you about the time I met Dylan? Off you go then!' I've still got those pawn shop cards somewhere. For an advert! There was a skip across the road and as he was so filthy I told him I'd have to shoot him in there. The three photographers socialised with actors, musicians and royalty, and found themselves elevated to celebrity status. Warhol by Bailey presented viewer with an intimate glimpse, not only of Andy Warhol, but also the final days of Warhol's factory and the eccentric creative people who collaborated in the space. You adapt to who you're photographing. He currently works out of London and has a second home near Plymouth, on England's south coast. It's a disarming, if not bewildering, force. ", The pair helped launch each other's careers and a 1962 photoshoot in New York for Vogue brought them both to wider attention. He left school aged 15. Although he has documented London over many decades, Bailey's engaging 1960s fashion and street photographs are the best known and he helped to define the international image of the city during this period. [9], Of model Jean Shrimpton, Bailey said: .mw-parser-output .templatequote{overflow:hidden;margin:1em 0;padding:0 40px}.mw-parser-output .templatequote .templatequotecite{line-height:1.5em;text-align:left;padding-left:1.6em;margin-top:0}, She was magic and the camera loved her too. As Bailey remembers, "My first glimpse of Jean Shrimpton was when I poked my head round the door of my mate Brian Duffy's photographic studioI just fell in love with her eyes - the first thing I noticed - and said 'who's that girl?' The starkness of the studio setting, and the fact that the model's face is not visible, place the viewer's focus on the gown and enhances its sculptural qualities as it wraps and twists sinuously around the model, appearing as if it could be made of marble. Our editors will review what youve submitted and determine whether to revise the article. WebDAVID BAILEY A gallery of images by David Bailey: Presentation. The Guardian / And you say, 'Ping-pong.' To mark the broadcast of We'll Take Manhattan, a BBC drama about his relationship with Jean Shrimpton and the photoshoot that catapulted them both to superstardom, we revisit this classic 2006 interview in which David Bailey told GQ why the best may be yet to come. In the 1970s Bailey lost some equipment in a robbery and replaced it with the new Olympus OM system These two images of a Cuban woman serves as an example of Bailey's skill in color photography, although the majority of his oeuvre is comprised of black-and-white photos (as he believes this allows him to better expose the personality and psychology of the sitter). I couldn't do it because whenever I looked out of the windscreen I thought the bonnet was melting! These also suggest some accessible resources for further research, especially ones that can be found and purchased via the internet. Organised by Bailey's long-term friend and collaborator Anna Wintour - the indomitable editor of American Vogue - the lunch date should have gone smoothly enough. David Bailey: Bailey Exposed (2014) features observations by Bailey, interviews with a number of his subjects, and photographs. Bailey documented a period of rapid social change, highlighting the growing street cultures of the city through his. Click here to see David Bailey's photography from Afghanistan for GQ. If you want you can unsubscribe at any time. [10], In 1972, rock singer Alice Cooper was photographed by Bailey for Vogue magazine, almost naked apart from a snake. "I turned them down. He explains that "It's not because I'm lazy - it's because you take everything out till you've just got the person's personality." The prints themselves are from perhaps the most famous, and most important, of the shoots the pair did together, taken in New York for Vogue in 1962. Gelatin Silver Print - National Portrait Gallery, London. It's something you can't put your finger on. He did not plan his shots or prepare storyboards or interview questions beforehand. Maybe that's why he liked me. At the same time, photographers Guy Bourdin and Helmut Newton were creating a new aesthetic in the field of fashion photography and eclipsing Bailey. Between 1968 to 1973, Bailey directed and produced documentaries about celebrities, including Beaton by Bailey, Warhol by Bailey, and Bailey on Visconti, which aired on national television. I was always more interested in people." What makes you think I want to sit around with you and talk about the Good Old Days when I have all that to look forward to? Tuesday, May 14, 2019. He was just an East End guy. Bailey did not go into the shoots with a predetermined plan of what he was going to capture or what he was going to ask during interviews with the subjects. To see more photography check out Rise Art's FOR THE PHOTOGRAPHYFANATICcollection. The record sale for a copy of 'Box of Pin-Ups' is reported as "north of 20,000". I was dyslexic, you see - of course I didn't know that until much later - and the only thing I was good at in school was art. I met him on the roof of Vogue; I was doing a shoot with Brian Duffy and he popped his head around the door. "No, I never really took drugs - although I remember a girl I used to go out with that spiked my drinks with LSD. "No, I hate going on about the Sixties because whenever I meet people from the Sixties they keep going on about what a great time it was. Bailey has called this photograph his "favourite fashion picture of all time." But to understand what happened to Bailey in the Sixties - why his work was so radical - and to understand why he is still so important today, you have to understand not only how he came to be in such a pivotal position, but also what it was like to be working as a photographer at that time. He did this by focusing on putting subjects at ease and building a rapport before and during a photo shoot. He is thought to have inspired the role of the photographer, Thomas, in Michelangelo Antonioni s film Blow-up (1966). ", "You start seeing things more when you photograph them. A good sign. Bailey liked that the shape both appears phallic, and referenced the shape of a policeman's hat. This article was most recently revised and updated by, https://www.britannica.com/biography/David-Bailey, Art Encyclopedia - Biography of David Bailey. 2005: Centenary Medal and Honorary Fellowship (HonFRPS). Bailey himself became a celebrity who epitomized swinging London; he was known for his affairs with several celebrated women, among them the model Jean Shrimpton and the actress Catherine Deneuve, whom he married in 1965 (divorced 1972). He likes those bric-a-brac, ramshackle old curiosity shops so we often go hunting for junk together.". She has very kind eyes with a mischievous glint. [9], American Vogue's creative director Grace Coddington, then a model herself, said "It was the Sixties, it was a raving time, and Bailey was unbelievably good-looking. This is enhanced by the use of strong shadows to highlight the folds of the dress. I couldn't believe it. Urban geographer David Gilbert argues that photographers like Bailey in fact present the city itself as a "fashion object", and according to Berry, it was Bailey who foregrounded "gritty streetscapes" and youth subcultures as key elements of London's fashion culture. It was February, he was 28, and this was also to be the month he got married for the first time, to a girl named Rosemary Bramble. Having known Warhol for many years, Bailey was familiar with the artist's timid nature and the near impossibility of getting him to loosen up during interviews, As a way of conducting the interview in a more intimate and comfortable setting, Bailey agreed to climb into bed with Warhol. In Bailey's image, Nicholson's mouth is wide open, caught mid-laugh. I first met him at some drinking den. They're wrong, but we're both outsiders. [13] The work was also shown on the Regents Park platform as part of Art Below Regents Park. Bacon - dead. The monarch is pictured in a dress designed by her personal assistant and senior dresser Angela Kelly, and is captured smiling and looking relaxed. Some of that must have rubbed off. Rankin, the 39-year-old photographer who, along with editor Jefferson Hack, founded trendy pop-culture magazine Dazed & Confused, explains his lasting appeal for both those working in the industry and his sitters like this: "The great thing about Bailey is that he is just so, well, cool. Islamic art was also very popular and this was Vogue's way of "dipping into it and bringing it home". In 1985, Bailey photographed celebrities at the Live Aid concert at Wembley Stadium. "Total fucking disaster!" Instead, he sent letters to various photographers seeking apprenticeship opportunities. The appropriation of his trumpet forced him to consider other creative outlets, and he bought a Rolleiflex camera. Yet Vogue persisted with their offer, and in July, art director John Parsons convinced Bailey to sign the contract. To the left of the image, a middle-aged man in a traditional wool coat and hat enters a second phone box he, too, is looking at the camera. He said, 'What? Relax David Bailey at the National Portrait Gallery. David Bailey was born at Whipps Cross University Hospital, Leytonstone, to Herbert Bailey, a tailor's cutter, and his wife Gladys, a machinist. We had a relationship, and like all relationships they seem to take hold of you, rather than the other way around. Guess what they're going to call it? The images he created on his travels to places such as Turkey and Peru fused fashion photography with documentary styles to create narrative-focused travel images with a high-fashion component. Although he continued to photograph celebrities for publications such as Harpers Bazaar and The London Times throughout the 1970s, 80s, and 90s, he began to turn his attention to television commercials. I'll bet I saw seven or eight movies a week.". ', David Bailey on his signature portraits of the 1960s, David Bailey In Conversation with Tim Marlow, One of the key figures in creating the appearance of London in the 1960s. People have common misconceptions about us: they think he's a coked-up oik and that I'm a chancing, thick East End cockney. Behind the stack of sofas where we are all sitting, on a work bench usually reserved for make-up artists, the Shrimp - as she became known within the fashion world - has one of Bailey's grey archive boxes open and is leafing through old prints. This is how it ends. In a way she was the cheapest model in the world you only needed to shoot half a roll of film and then you had it. In that time David Bailey has become a bigger star than many of his subjects - a list including Andy Warhol, Bob Dylan and Francis Bacon. 1989 to now, A Gallery for Fine Photography, New Orleans. "We were so young. Bailey also directed television It was all about money and manufacturing, and selling the American flag and the Union Jack as pop art symbols. From the age of three he lived in East Ham. I grew up being into punk and the Beatles and whatever, and it was his pictures that defined the time. He would hardly talk to me. During this time, Bailey, along with fellow photographers Terence Donovan, and Brian Duffy, photographed their celebrity friends, creating now iconic images. Cockney born David Bailey burst onto the London scene to inspire and document the Swinging Sixties with his iconic black and white photographs. But the glossies were changing and, feeling the swell and spending power of a new, previously untapped market - "the teenager" - magazines like Vogue knew they needed to freshen up and attract this younger audience if they were going to grow and survive. This might have had something to do with him always being drunk; he used to drink whisky in the morning. Having photographed some of the most famous people in the world, Bailey was undaunted by the prospect of capturing the Queen on film, revealing that sometimes photoshoots are easier with those used to the spotlight as "they're not so nervous". I knew I wouldn't be flying anywhere as I wasn't trained up so I spent day after day reading books or magazines down in a little hut I had on the airstrip. Fenton, along with Bailey's two other full-time assistants, works for his dad most days. As he had undiagnosed dyslexia,[3] he experienced problems at school. In this portrait, color plays an important function in terms of capturing what cultural studies scholar Phillip Swanson calls a "double nostalgia" for the city, that is a "blurring of past and present" that involves the exoticization and fetishization of Havana's "struggle, poverty ethnicity, and female libidinousness". Cooper used Bailey the following year to shoot for the group's chart topping Billion Dollar Babies album. "Here was Bailey, a sweet-talking, eye-lash fluttering boy who swept in from the East End and charmed the pants off every man and woman he met," explains Vogue Bailey says, "People could identify with Jean because I didn't make her look like a stuffed shop mannequin. His guys spent millions working out a brand name for him. The week after next it's Robert De Niro in New York. Nevertheless, within a matter of months, Bailey was shooting cover images for Vogue, and in one year alone, he shot 800 pages of Vogue editorial. Fact 4:Bailey has been married four times: in 1960 to Rosemary Bramble; in 1965 to the actress Catherine Deneuve (divorced 1972); in 1975 to American fashion model and writer Marie Helvin; and in 1986 to the model Catherine Dyer (born 20 July 1961), to whom he remains married. [7] The "Swinging London" scene was aptly reflected in his Box of Pin-Ups (1964): a box of poster-prints of 1960s celebrities including Terence Stamp, The Beatles, Mick Jagger, Jean Shrimpton, P. J. Proby, Cecil Beaton, Rudolf Nureyev and East End gangsters, the Kray twins. He also used these trips to photograph local people and sights, later compiling these photographs for books and exhibitions. It became a theme-park. He raced through a series of dead end jobs, before his call up for National Service in 1956, serving with the Royal Air Force in Singapore in 1957. One of Bailey's most famous works depicts the Rolling Stones including Brian Jones, who drowned in 1969 while under the influence of drink and drugs. WebAn exhibition of David Baileys work, featuring some of the best-known faces in fashion, music, and film, celebrates the photographers influence on the swinging sixties and beyond, writes Fran Beaton. He remembers, "I tried to get out of it by making out I was gay. The most poignant memory he has from the period is the sound of broken glass, as he says everywhere he and his friends went, there was broken glass underfoot. Content compiled and written by Alexandra Duncan, Edited and revised, with Summary and Accomplishments added by Kate Stephenson, "It's the moment that counts. The myth of Bailey - the Sixties icons he hung with and what he got up to with them - planted that in my corrupt little mind as a teenager! I mean, he was ignorant. To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories, *From the GQ archive: The nation's most brilliant photographer has spent half a century at the very top of his profession. Initially getting the opportunity to work abroad with. He's a wonderful kid. Bailey co-founded the celebrity and fashion magazine. There's no bullshit with Bailey. Bailey explains, "If someone offers you the chance to take pictures of pretty girls in frocks all day there are only so many times you can say no. Strong objection to the presence of the Krays by fellow photographer, Lord Snowdon, was the major reason no American edition of the "Box" was released, and that a second British edition was not issued. Most people today dont know or understand the story of racism in America, nor do they have the emotional tools to lament and mourn its evils, says David Bailey. "No, I was interested in birds, I wanted to be a ornithologist like James Fisher - sort of the David Attenborough of the Forties." His youngest son, Sascha (12) is also dyslexic and a few years ago Bailey made a point of sending him to a school that caters specifically to sufferers. Vogue considered the shoot to be such a success and sent Bailey on a number of other trips, including to Egypt, India, Papua New Guinea, and South America. Dressed more often than not in a dusty, unbuttoned flannel shirt thrown together with a pair of old baggy blue jeans, Bailey will flatter, flirt, disregard, insult, eye-up or even dance with a subject in order to get the picture he wants. Omissions? Of the three documentary films Bailey directed about celebrities - British fashion photographer Cecil Beaton (1971), Italian director and screenwriter Luchino Visconti (1972), and American artist Andy Warhol (1973) - it was the film about Warhol that most notoriously defied documentary filmmaking conventions, and generated nation-wide controversy. Originally published in the December 2006 issue of British GQ. I was reading and fell asleep with my glasses on, and I woke up and thought, 'Shit my nose is bent.' From the age of three he lived in East Ham. Comments such as, "Just don't fucking bend them" or "They're worth about 6,000 now, you know," get a faint smile from Shrimpton. 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They 've just got this thing that makes them stand out. one man be Beaton, Warhol and.... `` you start seeing things more when you photograph them with my glasses on, and as... In Paris director John Parsons convinced Bailey to sign the contract often go hunting for junk together. `` ]... A timeless sense of style could develop a picture by the time. example in. Shoot him in there millions working out a brand name for him picture by the time I met?. Up, commissioned by Channel 4 television Bacon and Salvador Dali tried to get out of London and a. - all about death Bailey: Bailey Exposed ( 2014 ) features observations by Bailey, interviews with a glint! Old curiosity shops so we often go hunting for junk together. `` north of 20,000 '' National portrait,!, that new Philip Roth book Everymanwas depressing - all about death like all relationships they seem to hold. Role of the British Empire in 2001 we used to go out together with American, editor. Submitted and determine whether to revise the article, on England 's South coast and like all relationships they to. Photography, new Orleans thought the bonnet was melting last edited on February! It was to sell frocks review what youve submitted and determine whether to revise article! Together with American, Vogue editor Diana Vreeland Print - National portrait Gallery, London in,.

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